You don’t need to have an aspiring musician in your home or business to benefit from soundproofing a room. Maybe you are renting out a bedroom or need a conference room to keep secrets inside. Maybe somebody in your household is hard of hearing and needs to turn up the TV or computer to comprehend the sound. Regardless, soundproofing a room generally has only benefits that come with it – and it’s a relatively easy project to undertake.
Sound escapes – or enters – through interior walls and the door to the room so it would make sense then that to block the audio you need to reinforce these features. Here’s how that is accomplished:
Examine Your Existing Wall Situation
Modern construction methods for interior walls dictate merely framing up the studs and applying sheetrock or paneling over-top them. This presents a nice finished look, but all it does for sound is create an echo chamber. If for some reason your interior walls are insulated, most simple DIY soundproofing methods are going to have little effect. If they are in fact covered by only a 1/2” piece of drywall and nothing else you can try these methods:
- Sound curtains – they go by many different names such as sound curtains, foam wall tiles, acoustic blankets, and more but their function is mostly the same. These items hang on your walls and deaden the vibration of sound going from one way to the other. They won’t exactly brighten up the room but they are easy to install and will perform the ultimate goal of creating a noise-free haven.
- Install a bookcase – sound curtains have the tendency to look tacky anywhere but a bedroom so if you are trying to quiet something like a den or living room try and utilize bookcases and shelving. You create more area for the sound to travel while also giving your home a luxurious look.
Installing a Secondary Wall
If you know sound is going to be an issue you can either rip open the existing wall and install better insulation or build a secondary wall into the room. The obvious takeback here is that you’re going to have less area in the room but some people are willing to sacrifice that in the name of peace and quiet.
The secondary wall gets framed just like the first, anchored to the floor, ceiling, and adjacent walls. You can also decouple sound by putting the maximum amount of space between the two walls. Sound clips and channels can be attached to the studs to lessen some of that sound transfer. You should also cover the back of your drywall with noise-proofing glue (damping compound) as it absorbs low-frequency bass. Finally, insulate the double wall as well for even more soundproofing. You’ll notice the room is not only quiet, but also much easier to heat and cool now.
Proofing the Door
Much like your garage, it doesn’t make much sense to treat the walls if the door is going to be a huge source of loss anyway. One of the easiest tasks that can be done is to install an inexpensive sweep on the bottom of the door. This will prevent sound from entering or leaving through the bottom crack of the door and it will keep cold drafts away. Unfortunately one of the main problem areas is the door itself as many residential models are constructed of a hollow core that protrudes sound. Installing a new solid door will help, otherwise so will adding mass to the door via a medium density fiber board (MDF) adhered with the soundproof glue.
It’s going to be very hard to make an area 100% completely soundproof, especially in a busy building. For commercial purposes, many businesses prefer for custom windows and doors to be used to ensure that certain rooms are sound-proofed. If you are a business looking to sound-proof one or more rooms, please contact us today or give us a call at (888) 380-2376.